Hand Appliqué 101: How to Master Straight Lines, Corners, and Curves

Appliqué can tell a story that would be difficult, if not impossible, in a pieced quilt. This versatile technique can be done by hand or machine, with each option offering a wide range of methods to achieve the desired results. Once you have tried this technique, you will realize that there are as many ways to do appliqué as there are people who appliqué. Once you have tried several methods, you will be able to pick and choose what you like and develop your own favorite techniques.

Two Types of Hand Appliqué

Most hand appliqué is a variation on needle turn appliqué, where you use the tip of your needle (or your fingertips) to turn the raw edges of the fabric under as you stitch. 

Standard appliqué

Most appliqué involves placing a shape or series of shapes onto a piece of background fabric. The piece(s) placed on the background fabric are typically the focal point of the design.

Reverse Appliqué

In reverse appliqué, you place the fabric that appears to be the background fabric on top of the fabric that is actually on the back. The top fabric is then cut away to reveal the focal point of the design, which is the fabric in the back.

Hand Appliqué Technique

Hand appliqué is one of my all-time favorite quilting techniques. My favorite method uses the following steps:

1. Cut out shapes and place them on the background fabric.
2. Baste the shape in place 1/4” from the edge of the piece.
3. Turn the raw edges under as you stitch the shape into place.
4. Remove the basting stitches.
5. Trim away the excess backing fabric.

The video tutorial below guides you through all these steps, allowing you to get started on your hand appliqué journey.

To follow along, you can download the template I use in the tutorial.