Welcome to Part 4 in out tote bag series!  This week is a lot of fun because we get to see our bags really come together.  All of these tutorial posts are pretty long, and this is no exception.  To keep it a bit more manageable, I have added a section to this site for Tips and Techniques, and I will be linking to topics within that category throughout this post.  The addition of this section will also make basic techniques more easily accessible as a reference.  As always, please contact me with any questions.  You may email me or leave a comment, and I will do my best to give you a clear answer!

The following Technique pages are referred to in this post:

• Flatlining
• Pinning and Stitching on a Line
• Thread Tracing
• Grading, Clipping, and Notching
• Understitching

If you are just joining us, this is a 5 part series.  Here are the other segments (links are updated as posts are added):

• Part 1:  Gathering Supplies
• Part 2:  Drafting Your Pattern
• Part 3:  Cutting the Fabric
• Part 4:  Assembling the Bag (You’re here now!)
• Part 5:  Finishing Techniques

Pull out all of the beautifully cut tote bag pieces from last week and locate the canvas pieces and the bag top and bottom exterior fabric pieces.  Flatline the canvas pieces to the outer fabric pieces.  For this project you will want to finish the edges of the pieces as described in the flatlining tutorial.

In a few steps, we will need to see the precise placement of the bag handles on the exterior of the bag.  To achieve this, we need to Thread Trace the bag placement lines.

Next we are going to prepare the pockets to be attached to the bag.  The pocket sides will be incased by the bag handles, and the pocket bottom will become a part of the seam attaching the bag top to the bag bottom.  That just leaves us the top of each pocket to deal with right now.

Find the exterior (with interfacing attached) and lining pieces for the rectangular pocket.  Place the pieces right sides together and pin and stitch along the top line.  Grade the seam allowance before turning the pocket right side out.  Carefully press the seam allowance toward the lining fabric.  Understitch the seam allowance to the lining fabric.  Lay the pocket out flat and give it a final press.

Find the exterior (with interfacing attached) and lining pieces for the pocket with flap.  Place the pieces right sides together and pin and stitch along the flap edge, pivoting with the needle down at any corners.  Notch and grade the seam allowance before turning the pocket right side out.  Lay the pocket out flat and give it a final press.  Under-stitching is really difficult on seams of this shape, so careful pressing is essential.

Find the exterior (with interfacing attached) and lining pieces for the curved top pocket.  Place the pieces right sides together and pin and stitch along the curved line.  Clip and grade the seam allowance before turning the pocket right side out.  Carefully press the seam allowance toward the lining fabric.  Under-stitch the seam allowance to the lining fabric.  Lay the pocket out flat and give it a final press.

There are button closures on two pockets which require a buttonhole on both the curved pocket and the pocket with a flap.  Pull out the buttons you plan to use for these pockets.  Determine the size of the button hole by measuring the thickness of the button and adding it to the diameter of the button.  You will always want to make a test buttonhole on a scrap of the fabric you are using for the project.  Follow the buttonhole directions for your sewing machine, cut open the sample hole and test the size by moving the button through the opening.  If it is too loose or too tight, adjust the size and make another test buttonhole.  Once you know the size of the buttonhole, determine where you would like it to be placed on the pocket.  I usually use a center placement since I like symmetrical pockets, but an asymmetrical pocket may look better with a different buttonhole placement.  Mark your buttonholes on the pockets using a fabric pencil or pin that will disappear over time or with washing.  Make the buttonholes and cut them open.

Take out one piece of the bag top and the curved pocket.  Place the bag top piece right side up.  Place the pocket between the handle placement lines.  The bottom of the pocket should line up with the bottom edge of the bag top piece.  The sides of the pocket should extend about 1/2″ into each handle placement lines.  Baste the pockets into place either by hand or machine.  The basting stitches should fall at the edges of the pocket, well within the handle placement lines.

For the other side of the bag you will need the bag top piece as well as the rectangular pocket and the pocket with flap.  Place the bag top piece right side up.  Lay the pocket with flap lining side up between the handle placement lines.  On top of the pocket with flap, place the rectangular pocket exterior side up.  Make sure to line up the pockets with the bottom edge of the bag top and between the handle placement lines.  Baste in place, just as you did with the curved pocket.  You will notice that you have actually created two pockets on this side of the bag.  The front pocket will be covered with the button flap.  Behind the flap layer is a pocket with an open top.

Now we are going to assemble the side seams.  Place the bag tops right sides together, making sure the top of the pieces are going the same direction.  Pin and stitch the side seams on the stitching lines.  

Press the side seams open.

For the bag bottom, fold the piece in half lengthwise with the right sides together (when folded, it should look like the pattern piece).  Pin and stitch both side seams.  Press open the seams.

Pin the shaping seam for the bag bottom.  The side seam should match up with the center of the bag bottom.  Pin and stitch on the line.

Place the pieces for the bag lining right sides together.  Pin and stitch the side seams on the stitching lines, finish the raw edges, then press the seams open.  

You will also want to pin and stitch the bottom of the bag, leaving several inches in the center of the seam open.  This opening is what you will use to turn the finished bag right side out, so don’t try to make it too small.  Pin and stitch the shaping seams of the bag lining.  When lining this seam up, the side seam will match up to the bottom seam.

With right sides together, pin and stitch the top of the bag top to the top of the bag lining.  Since this is a circular seam, you will want to match the side seams up to start with.  

Grade the seam allowance and press it toward the lining.  Understitch the seam allowance to the lining of the bag.

Situate the bag so the right side of the bag upper is readily accessible and the lining is pulled out away from the bag top.  We are now going to position the bag handles.  Before cutting the webbing, estimate the length you think you will need and pin it roughly in place.  Check the length and when you are happy, mark the length, unpin it, and cut two sections of webbing exactly the length.  Starting at the each end of the webbing, pin the webbing carefully in place between the handle placement thread tracing lines.  Double check that the handles didn’t get twisted in the pinning process.  

Stitch up one side of the handle, across the top of the webbing (just before you reach the top of the bag where it joins the lining) and back down the other side of the webbing.  Make sure you have the lining out of the way, so it doesn’t get caught up in the handle stitching.  Repeat this process for each section of handle.

With right sides together, pin and stitch the bag bottom to the bag top.  Hint:  I turn the bag bottom right side out, the bag top wrong side out, and slip the bag bottom inside the bag top.

Clip the bag top seam allowance just outside the bag handles.  Press the bag top to bag bottom seam open at the bag sides and down at the pocket and handle sections.

Turn the bag right side out and press the lining toward the inside at the top edge.  

You are almost there- Next week we’ll be finishing up!

I am linking this post up with WIP Wednesday at Freshly Pieced.  Please look in to see what everyone is working on!

One of the most wonderful parts of this tote bag is that you can create the pattern to fit your personal needs.  In this post we will go through the steps of drafting a full pattern for your bag.  If you have never created a pattern before, you will probably be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to do!

I have taught this technique in person many times, but this is the first time I have ever put it all down in writing.  This is a crazy long post!  I have tried to give the most clear directions possible, but if anything is confusing or you have questions please email me.  I will do my best to help you through this process.

If you are just joining us, this is a 5 part series.  Here are the other segments (links are updated as posts are added):

• Part 1:  Gathering Supplies
• Part 2:  Drafting Your Pattern (You’re here now!)
• Part 3:  Cutting the Fabric
• Part 4:  Assembling the Bag
• Part 5:  Finishing Techniques

For the sake of clarity, the diagrams in this post are computer generated, but I usually create patterns using a roll of brown paper, pencils, a ruler, and a drafting triangle (or tailor’s/framing square, or large square rotary cutting ruler).  There is a complete supply list with descriptions in Part 1.  

You will want to think about what you will use this bag for in order to determine the size you would like to make.

• Large:  A great size for hauling a few towels, snacks, and some reading material to the pool or beach.  I often use this as a personal item carry-on, especially if my other item is a computer bag.  This easily holds a  change of clothes, my tablet, a couple magazines, and the purse I will carry once I arrive.  The buttoned pockets can keep your cell phone at hand.  This is the size I make the most often, and it is pictured here.  Overall finished measurements are approximately 15″x14″x8″
• Medium:  Perfect for the grocery store or farmer’s market, this size is perfect for carrying both heavy or bulky items.  I have often used this for carrying library books.  This size makes very efficient use of fabric. Overall finished measurements are approximately 15″x11.5″x6″
• Small:  A good size for keeping small-ish projects with you, a smaller sized library bag, or a kid’s activity bag.  Overall finished measurements are approximately 12″x12″x4″

The first pattern piece we will draft is the bag top.  This piece is a rectangle.  Maintaining 90° angles is the most important part of this piece.  Using the largest triangle or square ruler you have, line up one side of the tool with either a straight drawn line or the edge of the paper.  (Only use the edge of the paper if it is clean, smooth, and has not warping or contortions.)  With the ruler or triangle carefully placed, draw a perpendicular line along the other side of the 90º angle.With the first angle created, you will make a mark along one line indicating the height of the piece (around 2/3 the overall height of the bag is usually a pleasing proportion).  On the other line mark the line the width of the bag.  You will cut two of this pattern piece (one front and one back), so the width of this piece will be half of the desired circumference of the finished bag.  Use your 90 angle to draw the rest of the rectangle.  For this bag, the rectangle measured 22″ x 10″.  Check the lengths of each side to make sure the measurements of the long sides are equal to each other.  The lengths of the short sides should correspond to each other as well.  To double check the accuracy of your angles, measure diagonally from one corner to the other and make note of the measurement.  Then measure the other set of diagonal corners.  If the measurements are equal, the angles are a true 90º!  Do not add seam allowances to this, or any pattern piece at this point.Once you have the rectangle drawn, you will determine the placement of the bag handles (shown as dashed lines in the diagram above).  How wide do you want the pockets on your bag?  The pockets are placed between the handles, so their size will indicate handle placement.  Subtract the desired pocket width from the width of the rectangle.  Then divide that number in half.  For example:  22″ (rectangle length) – 7″ (pocket width) = 15″.  Half of 15 is 7.5″.  This means that you will measure seven and a half inches from each side of the rectangle and draw a dashed line.  Look at the proportions of what you have drawn.  Adjust as needed, making sure that the pattern remains symmetrical.  When you are happy with the pocket width, draw an additional dashed line 1″ toward the outer edge of the rectangle.  The handles will be placed between the lines.

Draw a grain line parallel to the edge of the rectangle.  You will label each pattern piece as above- but make sure to list yourself as the pattern designer!  Indicate the appropriate size of tote, the pattern piece name, and in a box write how many pieces you will need to cut of each fabric.  NSA means that you have included no seam allowance.  Along the edges of the pattern piece, you will write how much seam allowance you will want to add when laying out and cutting your bag.  In this case I wrote +1/2″.  Note:  Omitting seam allowance in the pattern making process allows you to more easily make sure the pieces of the bag will fit together.  If you would rather include seam allowance in the pattern , you may tape on additional paper after all the pieces are drafted, or you may retrace each piece completely with the added seam allowance.  Commercially available patterns include seam allowance, but many people who sew one of a kind garments add seam allowance when cutting the fabric.

Now you are ready to draw the bag bottom.  Begin by drawing a rectangle that is the same length as the bag top pattern piece.  This pattern piece includes shaping seams which will create the bottom of the tote bag.  To determine the height of the rectangle you are drawing you will want to consider how much depth you would like to create for the bottom of the bag and add that to the amount of the bag bottom piece you would like to see on the front/back of the bag.  Draw this rectangle using the same process you used for the bag top.  For this bag I started with a rectangle measuring 22″x9″

Once you have created the bag bottom rectangle, you are ready to add the shaping seams.  If you have a square rotary cutting ruler, this is a good time to pull it out.  The shaping seams are squares removed from the bottom of the rectangle. The vertical and horizontal lines must be of equal length, and the squares should be the same size on both sides of the bag.In the photo above I have drafted the bag top and bottom so that the bottom line of the bag top is the top line of the bag bottom.  This guarantees that the length of theses seams will match up perfectly when you are sewing the bag together.  The shaping seams in this photo form a 4″ square.
The Bag bottom piece will be cut on the fold of the fabric in order to eliminate the need for a seam at the bottom of the bag.  Label the pattern piece as shown above, making sure to indicate the location of the fold line at the bottom of the pattern piece.

The lining pattern is the next to draw.  If you were able to draft the top and bottom pieces so that they shared a line (as shown above), you can create the lining pattern by cutting the exterior lines of the pieces while leaving the line connecting the pieces intact.  (Do you see how I used push pins in the homasote topped table?  You can also lay down foam core or a piece of foam core to pin into.  Don’t have any of that?  Try using pattern weights-or even a couple books to hold down your pattern pieces on your regular table)  Carefully trace this piece onto another section of paper.  Now you have the lining piece- easy right?
The lining pattern should be equal to the bag top and bag bottom pattern pieces combined.Add a grainline parallel to the edge of the pattern piece and label the pattern as shown below.

Go ahead and cut out the pattern pieces you have made so far.  Take out the bag top pattern piece, place the center of the pattern piece over another section of paper that is big enough to create a pocket pattern, and use push pins to hold it in place.  Trace the bottom of the pattern using a pencil.  Then pull out your tracing wheel to mark the interior dashed lines.  This will guarantee that the pocket width will correspond with the width between the bag handles.  You may use a ruler to help ensure the line you trace is straight.

Do you see how the pocket pattern will fit between the handles?The height of the pocket is up to you.  A lot of people like to use this pocket for a cell phone, so you may want to use that as a starting point.  The flap on the pocket makes it even more secure, so design something with proportions that are pleasing to you.

Label the pattern as indicated in the diagram above.  Don’t forget a grain line!

The pocket for the other side of the bag is open with a curved top.  Create this pocket using the directions for the above pocket, but instead of designing a flap you will create a concave curve.  Tracing around the edge of a plate or round container is a good way to make the curve of the pattern piece.Add a grain line and label the final pattern piece.
Cut out all of your pattern pieces, and you have finished your tote bag pattern!  Happy Dance!This post is linked up to Let’s Bee Social at Sew Fresh Quilts and WIP Wednesday at Freshly Pieced.  Please stop by to check out all of the awesome work being created!